Puppy Suggestions and Tips

General information and suggestions for your new puppy:

 All puppies have been on PURINA PUPPY CHOW since 3 weeks of age. I would recommend continuing this product, but if you wish to change over to another produce, please remember to do so slowly and gradually.  Puppies need additional protein and energy(fat) to grow, so try and find a product with a minimum of 18% protein.   Avoid additional dyes, “juices,” “gravy,” etc. as these are used to sell a product to us humans and not needed for the puppy.  I tried a more meat-based dog food, like Blue Buffalo large puppy (chicken and brown rice), and found that the puppies did not grow as well on it.

In addition, veterinarians are now discouraging any dog food that is advertised as “grain free” (like Blue Buffalo, Nutro, Rachel Ray, Taste of the Wild, 4Health, etc) as there have been numerous reports of cardiomyopathies (enlarged hearts) associated with these and other similar products. I recommend researching the dog food you are planning to use and not just listening to the hype of a brand from advertising.   ****  I do NOT recommend Purina Pro Plan as it has been linked to numerous fatal liver problems  ****

Personally, my experience has been to only use Purina Puppy Chow for the best results and to feed it dry, never wet, as this can contribute to bloat and other problems. Besides, dry food requires the dog to chew and masticate the food slowly aiding in teething issues and resulting in cleaner teeth later. Also, less food is consumed and it creates better eating habits. Please feed all puppies on this diet for a minimum of six months.  After that, you can decrease the protein requirement and switch over to an adult dog food

.purina puppy chow bag

  • For MALE pups:
    1. I have spoken to several vets and I would NOT recommend neutering your male pup until he reaches a minimum of 10-11 months of age. Some vets will push you to neuter sooner, but that is totally unnecessary. Waiting a little longer allows your pet to mature in muscle, bone, structural correctness and intelligence with no bad side effects. If you want a rambunctious baby for the rest of your life and possible health problems down the road then neuter earlier, otherwise please wait.  This is my personal recommendation based on my own experiences and those of other breeders and owners that I have talked to.
  • For FEMALE pups:
    1. My recommendation is to NOT SPAY your female until she has completed her first heat cycle (usually between 7-10 months), especially if she has had urinary tract infections, leaking, etc. All of these issues, plus any future ones, should correct itself if the female is allowed to go through a normal heat cycle (due to the hormonal influence of maturity).   
  • I recommend both heartworm preventative and flea/tick treatments to avoid diseases and parasite infestations associated with these conditions. See your vet for best recommendations. Heartworms can be fatal to your pet. Fleas are a nuisance and can cause Tapeworm infections. Ticks carry several diseases such as Lyme and Tick Paralysis, both of which can cause lifetime problems for your pet.
  • ESS’s tend to gain weight easily, so it is important to not overfeed your dog and to make sure that s/he gets plenty of exercise. In addition, I have found that pups/dogs that chew a lot, get into mischief, show symptoms of depression, etc. are usually NOT getting enough exercise during the day. Young pups/dogs require plenty of exercise to grow normally and to release their “excessive” energies. Please be sure to walk/jog with your dog several times daily, throw a ball, take him to a dog park, etc. S/he will be a happier dog and behave much better.
  • Be sure to register your microchip registration as soon as possible. Your microchip only works if a name/phone number is registered to it in the national databank. In addition, I recommend a collar with your phone number(s) stitched into it or on a metal tag attached to the collar. Do NOT put the name of the dog or your family name on the collar. This will only aid those who wish to keep your pet.
  • I recommend attending a puppy socialization and obedience class. This is important not only for the puppy, but for the new owner as well.   Remember, you are the pack leader and must behave as such at all times. Otherwise, as your pet matures s/he may decide to take over the “pack” and this can lead to all sorts of problems. I would recommend reading any book by Cesar Milan, generally considered to be the best Dog Whisperer out there. As your puppy gets older, I would recommend more advanced obedience classes.  Remember: If you do not continue to show your Pack Leadership over your dog as they get older, s/he may get the idea to test their own ability to become pack leader.  
  • It is OK to discipline your pet.  A light slap on the muzzle when s/he is biting is OK. A rolled up newspaper or water from a water bottle is also a great way to correct a pup. Bad habits started at a young age are not better at an older age. In fact, if you allow your pup to chew, jump on the furniture (or yourself), growl, bark, etc. at this age, then don’t be surprised when your older 50 or 60-pound dog does the same thing only worse (and now it isn’t cute or funny). Good habits start young and must be emphasized continuously and uniformly throughout their formative months.  If you continue to have problems, please contact me immediately for more suggestions and tips.  The longer a bad habit is happening the harder it is to correct. 
  • I recommend using a crate for early training. Be sure to get a crate that is big enough for your pet and one s/he may be able to use later for traveling, resting, etc. Crate training is easy, doesn’t hurt the animal, protects your house when you aren’t there, and is an excellent tool for housebreaking your pet and teaching him/her patience. If you don’t believe in a crate, then that is your preference and I understand, but I know many dogs that ended up in the shelter because they destroyed their masters’ house while they were gone. Remember, it isn’t the dog’s fault when that happens—so don’t take it out on him/her. If you don’t understand what “crate training” entails, please ask me and I will be happy to explain.  I recommend a crate at around 20 inch x 20 inch x 27 inch (give or take a few inches in any one/two directions).  This size will work for pups up to about 5 months. 
  • Only get 1-2 chew toys for your pup to play with. Anymore that that and it only gets too confusing for the pup. Pick a toy that is totally different than anything else in your house or else mistakes can happen. For example: a pup cannot tell the difference between an old shoe that you gave it to chew on and your expensive Italian ones.   Rawhide bones are good to use, but they can get expensive over time. Never give your dog any type of “cooked” or cut bone, including chicken, pork, beef, turkey, etc. Raw and whole bones are better. Small rawhides or bones can cause choking. If you find your pup chewing on something other than his/her designated “toy,” then say “no” and give him/her the correct toy to play with and praise them for it.
  • I don’t like to feed table scraps to my dogs. It only makes them beg and snap at your food plate or fingers. In addition, there are certain foods that can be dangerous to your dog, especially chocolate. Do not give your dog Ibuprofen or other NSAID products. Always see your vet for medications and medical advice.
  • Always remember “Wolf Pack” mentality and you will never have a problem. Never let your dog crowd you at the door, jump on the bed or couch (without permission first), growl at you or others as these are all examples of dominant pack behavior. Always make your dog sit and wait till you put his/her food down and gets permission to eat, learns obedience and does it when told, etc. When walking your dog, s/he should be beside you, never in front as this is a form of dominance from the dog.  It is your job to reinforce these things continuously throughout your dog’s life, but especially at his/her younger years. A well trained dog is a happy dog (and happy parents!).

Health Issues: 

Ears: ESS are prone to ear infections, but there are some steps that you can do to help prevent and/or cure a problem.

  • i.      Always keep the hair on the underside of the ear clipped as shortly as you can.
  • ii.      Always clip the front, outer part of the ear to allow as much air flow as possible into the ear.
  • iii.      If your dog likes to get wet, then the first two steps are very important.
  • iv.      Using a product with boric acid or isopropyl alcohol and putting several drops into the dog’s ears once a week or after each bathing/playing in water, rubbing it into the ear canal well will help to keep the ear dry and less likely for yeast infections.
  • v.      Keep your dog’s ears clean, but only clean the areas that you can see clearly. NEVER use a Q-tip to dig deeper into the ear canal or you could rupture his/her eardrum.
  • vi.      If the ear smells “funny” or you notice them shaking their head and/or scratching the ear and whining as they do so, then follow the steps above. If no improvement, then seek veterinary care.

 Eyes: If you notice your dog’s eyes are running please consider the following:

  • i.      Check the eye for any foreign object that might be lying near the eye. If so, wipe the area GENTLY with a clean cloth to remove. Avoid scratching the eye.
  • ii.      If you can’t see anything obvious, try flushing the eye with warm, clean water.
  • iii.      If your dog likes to run in long grass or fields, then they might have a foreign object or an abundance of pollen in their eye. Flush or leave alone to see if they are better in 24 hours.
  • iv.      If the eye appears infected or is getting worse, seek veterinary care immediately.

 Feet:

  • i.      I like to trim the hair on the feet to reduce the amount of mud and dirt that they will pick up if kept long. Plus trim between the pads to avoid buildup of “wads”, which are painful and unnecessary for your pet.
  • ii.      Trim their toes as necessary.
  • iii.      If they show tenderness or pain in their paws, seek veterinary care.

Skin: ESS do not have much of an undercoat and therefore do not shed excessive amount of dead hair in the spring like some breeds (thank goodness!) However, I recommend grooming and bathing them regularly. If you notice any itching or hair falling out in specific spots then try the following:

  • i.      Treat for fleas with a reliable product
  • ii.      Shampoo the area with Blue Dawn soap and cover with an antibiotic ointment if you notice a raw area or sore spot.
  • iii.      If you don’t see any noticeable problem, and the dog is not itching or bothered by it, then leave it alone and it will probably be OK. Some dogs lose a lot of their coat in the summer and grow it back in the winter.

  Teeth: Feed your dog dry dog food and brush their teeth once a week. This will help to reduce tartar buildup.   However, if you notice plaque building around the teeth, seek veterinary care.

    I am always available for any questions or concerns. If you ever need some advice or help, please do not hesitate to contact me at spirithillspringers@hotmail.com (preferred), or 540-829-0806 (leave a message with as much detail as possible). If you wait until the problem becomes a habit or a bigger problems, then it is much harder to correct and the outcome is not always favorable.  

 SPIRIT HILL SPRINGERS
17552 Kibler Road,  Culpeper, Virginia 22701
www.spirithillspringers.com                        spirithillspringers@hotmail.com